CRUISE.
Updated: Jun 14
cruise critiques: the big four
gucci: searches are up, but at what cost?? demna falls short yet again, and he's tearing down the brand’s historic image season by season. no amount of front-row celebrity placement can compensate; brief virality is no longer aspirational for brands and consumers alike. dare i say the in-house design team who took over between de sarno and demna did a better job for the f/w25 show…
chanel: on the flip side, blazy's chanel has a chokehold on everyone right now, mostly thanks to marketing and the wearability of the accessories and shoes. i don't love the direction he's taking chanel, and i heavily disagree with anyone claiming he's even close to restoring the former glory of lagerfeld's era. but i did like some details from the show, like these mermaid nails crafted by ama quashie.
louis vuitton: boringgggg 🥱 i love ghesquiere’s previous work, but this one gave absolutely nothing
dior: some general thoughts first: wasn't ever completely on-board with anderson’s dior. it's been overall slightly better than maria's era, but nothing insane. definitely wouldn’t go as far as to say he's doing better than galliano, whom anderson cited as a personal inspiration. BUT wow this cruise show looked like a half-assed, meh version of chanel. i especially expected more from menswear, but most looks were plain and frankly incohesive (this was true for womenswear as well unfortunately).
current trends: start of summer
thong kitten heels: everyone and their mother is wearing them right now, most notably the viral pair from toteme, as seen on hailey bieber. i wanted to love them, but they weren't the most comfortable and definitely require some effort to break in. plus the heel is almost nonexistent. if that’s what you like, go for it! but as someone with unideal proportions i usually go for a taller heel.
capris: and more recently, oversized capris, as seen on amelia gray. they've been trending for a while now, and i fell victim to them immediately. they're cute, fun, and easy to pair with almost anything: a cardigan, graphic baby tee, plaid shirt, etc.
silk shorts/matching sets: flowy, lightweight, not surprising for summer.
funky colors: i love fun colors. but i've noticed how some fashion influencers have started throwing random, offensively clashing colors into an outfit to emulate that "effortlessly cool i-just-threw-them-on" look. NO sorry it's just ugly
general thoughts!
i loved witnessing the expeditious rise and fall of the cbk trend. rushing to cos and buying a plain white tank does not transform you into modern-day cbk, and the concept of a "modern-day cbk" doesn't exist. what we're seeing is a growing, lazy tendency to emulate specific pieces without understanding their essence or reference points, all in an effort to signal the adoption of a someone else's literal identity. cbk was just the latest target.
father galliano at zara... are we in hell. their historical archives consist of faux leather jackets and ripped jeans. putting him in charge of somehow reworking these archives feels unreal.
i'm surprised but also not really by kering downsizing mcqueen and slashing half their global stores. mcgirr's newest season felt edgy and somewhat wearable, especially for the younger generation, but the issue lies in that the price point absolutely does not cater to the audience that actually wants to wear it.
now, ending on a more positive note!!! so sat for 7 for all mankind's fall/winter pieces to hit the stores.
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